Sushi
Tokyo has sushi at every level and all of it is worth trying.
At the top end, there are world-renowned omakase restaurants like Saito and Sawada that are expensive and need to be booked well in advance. They're worth splurging on once in a lifetime for the experience.
But some of my favorites are the ones I keep going back to near Toyosu Fish Market. Sushi Daiwa and Sushi Dai are right next to the market and a great first stop if you're jetlagged. Get there early, eat incredible sushi, and let the city wake you up.
There are also standing sushi bars and conveyor belt spots where the prices are very affordable and the quality is still great. Uogashi Nihon-Ichi in Shibuya is a standing sushi bar I keep finding myself going back to constantly.
Saito
Saito is the Roppongi sushi counter that earned a 4.62 on Tabelog, a rank that puts it in the very-hard-to-book tier. Stylish room with a warmer feel than the more austere Ginza counters. Chef's choice format. Reservations open weeks out. The kind of meal worth planning the trip around.
Must order: The full chef's-choice omakase, The seasonal tsumami courses, Ask for the chef's tea or sake suggestion
Daiwa Sushi
Daiwa is the other Toyosu market sushi room, the one regulars sometimes suggest when the Sushi Dai line is unreasonable. Counter only, in the market, no pretense. Nigiri and rolls done well at a fair price for the format. The line is shorter than Sushi Dai's but it is still a line.
Must order: The chef's-choice nigiri set, The seasonal fish flight, A roll or two to round out the meal
Sushi Dai
Sushi Dai is the Toyosu market sushi spot known for legendary early-morning queues and a chef's-choice omakase that ends with the famous tamago. Counter only. The line forms before sunrise. Plan to be in the queue by 4 or 5 if you want the same-day seat. The reward is sushi at its market-fresh peak.
Must order: The chef's-choice omakase set, The signature tamago at the end, Whatever the day's featured fish is
Uogashi Nihon-Ichi Shibuya Dogenzaka
Uogashi Nihon-Ichi is the standing sushi bar chain that does quality nigiri at reasonable prices, with this Shibuya branch on Dogenzaka as a useful stop between trains. Stand at the counter, order by the piece, pay and go. The right pick for a quick sushi fix without a reservation.
Must order: The chef's selection of nigiri, Whatever the seasonal fish is, A miso soup on the side
Sawada
Sawada is the Ginza sushi counter for chef Koji Sawada and his wife, a six-seat room widely considered one of the harder reservations in the city. No menu. No choices. The format is total trust. The room rewards patience and respect for the form. This is omakase as a discipline.
Must order: The full chef's-choice omakase, Whatever tsumami the chef serves between, The tea pairing the staff offers
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